Opening ranges
Reasonable six-handed opening ranges, widening by position. These are a starting point, not a law.
| Position | Share | Includes | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| UTG | 15–18% | 77+, AJs+, AQo+, KQs, some suited connectors | Five players behind — stay tight |
| MP | 19–22% | Add 66, ATs, KJs, QJs | Slightly wider |
| CO | 27–30% | Add 55, A8s+, KTs, J9s, T9s | Stealing starts here |
| BTN | 40–45% | Most suited hands, all pairs, wide suited connectors | Best position, widest range |
| SB | 28–32% | Raise-first; avoid flat calling | Worst position postflop |
| BB | Defend 30–45% | Adjust to the opener's position and size | One blind already invested |
← swipe the table →
The value of a range chart is consistency, not precision. Playing 18% under the gun sometimes and 35% other times denies opponents a read — but it also removes the basis for your own plan on later streets. Get consistent first, optimise later.
Facing a 3-bet
You open, someone reraises. There are three options, and each needs a reason:
4-bet
Your strongest hands (QQ+, AK) plus a small number of suited-ace bluffs for balance.
Call
Best in position, with hands that develop postflop — pairs and suited connectors.
Fold
Out of position and not strong enough. That is discipline, not weakness.
Calling 3-bets out of position with AJo and KQo because they “look decent”. Those hands most often make the second-best hand postflop — exactly strong enough to lose a large pot with.
The logic of bet sizing
- Decide the intent first. Want folds, bet bigger. Want calls, bet smaller.
- Use one size per spot. Different sizes for value and bluffs is the same as showing your cards.
- Wetter board, bigger bet. Charge the draws when there are many of them.
- More opponents, bigger bet. In a three-way pot, a small bet almost always gets called by someone.
| Situation | Suggested size | Reasoning |
|---|---|---|
| C-bet on a dry board | 25–33% of pot | Cheap way to take the pot down |
| C-bet on a wet board | 60–75% of pot | Make draws pay |
| River value bet | 50–75% of pot | The maximum your opponent can still call |
| River bluff | Same as your value size | Sizing must not leak information |
| Preflop open | 2–2.5 BB | The online standard |
← swipe the table →
GTO versus exploitative
What works
- Low stakes with obvious leaks → exploit, and earn substantially more
- Regulars who adjust back at you → move toward GTO to protect yourself
- Unknown opponents, as in Rush & Cash → GTO as the default
- Multi-tabling → GTO as a baseline reduces the decision load
What does not
- Memorising frequencies but never spotting a leak — you leave low-stakes money behind
- Exploiting hard with almost no sample: that is guessing, not exploiting
- Trying to build reads in Rush & Cash, where you never see the player again
- Using GTO as a reason not to think about the situation in front of you
Bankroll management
| Format | Buy-ins | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Cash NLH | 30–50 | Take 50 if you are risk-averse |
| Cash PLO | 50–100 | Variance is materially higher than Hold'em |
| Rush & Cash | 40–60 | High hand volume means downswings arrive fast |
| Tournaments | 100+ | 200 events without a cash is a normal run |
| Spin & Gold | 200+ | Extreme variance |
← swipe the table →
It is not simply that risk of ruin rises. It is that you start making decisions to protect the bankroll — calling where you should raise, folding where you should call. An adequate bankroll's real function is letting you play normally.
Emotional control
- Set a hard stop-loss. X buy-ins down and the session ends, with no amendments in the moment.
- Cap session length. Fatigue errors cost exactly as much as tilt errors.
- Take two minutes after a bad beat. Not superstition — physiology needs the time to settle.
- Review decisions, not results. You cannot control outcomes; you can control choices.
Strategy matters — so does your cost base
The same game plan produces very different results where rake caps are lower and rakeback is higher.
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Frequently asked questions
What is GTO?
Game Theory Optimal describes a strategy that cannot be exploited: whatever an opponent does, your long-run expectation does not go negative. It is not the most profitable approach — against opponents with obvious leaks, exploitative play earns considerably more.
Do beginners need GTO?
Not first. At low stakes the leaks are large and obvious, so exploitative adjustments — bluff less against calling stations, value bet thinner — pay far better than memorised frequencies. GTO's value is as your default when you know nothing about the opponent.
Should I memorise range charts?
Yes, but only six-handed opening ranges and your responses to 3-bets. Memorising full multi-street frequency tables does not help at low stakes and pulls your attention away from the actual situation in front of you.
How do I choose a bet size?
Start from intent: bet larger to fold hands out, smaller to get called. Crucially, your value bets and bluffs should use the same size in the same spot, or opponents can read your hand from the sizing alone.
What bankroll do I need?
Cash games: 30–50 buy-ins minimum. Tournaments: at least 100. High-variance formats like Spin & Gold: 200 or more. Below that, even a winning strategy can go broke during a normal downswing.
How do I avoid tilt?
Set a hard stop-loss: lose X buy-ins and the session ends, no discussion. Write the rule when you are calm and do not allow in-the-moment amendments. Willpower almost always fails; rules work.
Does multi-tabling hurt decision quality?
Yes. As tables increase you fall back on default responses and lose the ability to adjust. Find your limit by adding one table at a time and noting where basic errors start appearing.